Are you sure that your graphics driver supports anti-aliasing? Are you sure that it's not turned off in the driver settings?
Yeah it does and it is enabled. In
amdcccle, the card's control panel, everything relevant was set to respect the applications. Just to make sure I bumped up the AA settings to maximum, and restarted
gdm, with the result of my whole desktop being blurry, but still no AA in the SFML game. The card is a AMD Radeon HD 7450, btw, a low end but relatively new card.
It might have to do with me using a handle to a GTK widget
I don't know, this is a possibility. You should try to construct a true RenderWindow (not based on a GTK widget), to see if it changes something.
Good call, I created a SFML RenderWindow and the issue persists, so it's not GTK's fault.
Then I tried the "opengl" & "window" demos: same thing. The RenderWindow refuses to accept the AA values I pass to the it's settings (changing other values, like depth or stencil bits, works, though).
EDIT:
A Screenshot BTW, that also shows something weird, IMO, about how SFML renders shape outlines: I think the lines are outside the polygons instead of centered on the edges. E.g. if you use a 20px line, all pixels would end up outside the polygon, instead of 10px inside and 10 outside, as I would had expected. But that's another topic.